Mine has the same one. Import vibratos are made of inferior metals and often have manufacturing flaws that render them less stable than their US-made counterparts. Wikipedia: https://www.ebay.com/itm/202428884710?ul_noapp=true. He was a huge fan of the VI and devotes a chapter with photos demonstrating how to position your right hand for walking bass lines, plus excercises and solos. Keep them. Bass vi bridge I bought a squier VM Bass vi even before I knew about the many Intonation issues it have, I totally ignored it. It’s fun to hand it to them and say, “Try it out.”. Oh yes! I actually do use the LaBellas, but I haven’t had that problem. I’ve seen and heard of a number of VMs that had wiring issues or faulty parts right out of the box, so if you’re going to be using this instrument heavily I would insist that you have the instrument rewired with higher quality pots, switches, capacitors, and even replace the jack while you’re at it. Absolutely an indispensable piece of my arsenal! However, the hollow core of the post is threaded. Plus, I find the AVRI, vintage, and Mastery vibratos to be far superior in feel and range, so adding a B5 wouldn’t be high on my list of mods. Would that be a real upgrade comparing to the squier ones? Have a question about windings, covers or just want to shoot the breeze? If there is any hope of fixing the issue with the posts that would be a big help. Perfect timing as I’m actively in the market right now! As far as you know, should they all be the same? Wish I could find a fender vi in the $1000 range with proper specs. I showed it off proudly and handed it over to person after person, none of whom could believe what they were playing was a lowly Squier. The orientation of your pickup claws doesn’t matter so much, truthfully. Hi, Kai! After a good set up and a great set of strings, change the bridge if you deem it necessary, which you may given the import hardware. If you ever have a chance to inspect a vintage Bass VI, you’ll notice that the original bridge is much wider than the one found on most reissues, which is just a standard offset bridge slapped on likely due to the costs of tooling-up for such a niche item. Optional claw and cover. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. And my bad! I’m proud to play my Squier. Brilliant article, Michael. It looks like the stock bridge to me. I highly recommend having the nut replaced by a competent tech in the material of your choice; my preference is bone. Prepare to be amazed: there’s no good reason to toss these. Actually I don't see Intonation issues "at all" or at least the instrument is not unplayable because of the intonation, but I do kind of hear weird from the low E 14th fret, I think it might need just a little adjustment to get it right, every else seems to sound right. Thanks, Curtis! Thanks for the tips … just got a Squier as a backup for my Pawn Shop model VI, which is the main instrument I play in the duo I have with my wife/drummer. I’m a huge fan of Lollar Pickups. For complete information about the cookies we use, data we collect and how we process them, please check our, "I didn't even want to say because I love them so much that I don't want everyone to have em..! (Unfortunately the baritone JM itself just doesn’t offer as much modding flexibility, and A std isn’t as attractive to me as E std.) Kalium (Rounds, tons of options) I started out with a MIJ VI in the mid-90s that was sadly stolen soon after. I must ask though, as someone who doesn’t know jack about electronics, how important is it to change the pots and capacitors? The first mod I’m going to suggest can hardly be called a mod at all, but believe you me, it’s crucial. Hit us up here! That original 1” width is a big part of the Bass VI functionality puzzle, which translates to more flexibility when it comes to intonation. So many amazing sounds in that guitar. Like I said, it really bucks the hum! Because this information doesn’t seem to be collected anywhere, here’s a handy shortlist of string makers that offer a good set of VI strings with adequately heavy E string, which I’ll update as I stumble upon them. It was a lot of work, but I’m so proud of the noise we made together at those shows. Thunderbird $ 210.00. When Fender released the Bass VI in 1961, the standard set was made up of strings gauged .026”-.095”, and that .095” is key here. To that point, I recently joined my good friends Vanessa and Sarah, a duo better known as Leo Leo. I’ll get two matching screws and perhaps grind down the heads. Unless you’re in a surf band you really want a bari, not a 6 string 30″ scale bass…..I think… It’s got the same Pat # as the one you recommended, but is a little cheaper. The main sound is correct (so it’s, let’s say, intonated…), but it still has those annoying overtones, making it sound out of tune with itself! Well at least something like the stock one, but the ones I saw in other bass vi are like this one. I bought a squier VM Bass vi even before I knew about the many Intonation issues it have, I totally ignored it. Upgrades: -Lollar pickups -Fenderparts mint guard -Mastery Bridge + Vibrato (thanks Woody!) Look to CTS, Bourns, or my good friends at Emerson Custom for pots, Switchcraft for the jack and switches, and any number of options exist for capacitors. There was only one occasion before a show where a churlish bassist chided me for playing––and I quote––a “piece of shit.”.

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